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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. However, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.